Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon

Fjaðrárgljúfur was carved by the Fjaðrá River. Around 9,000 years ago, as the glaciers retreated, a lake formed, and water flowing out of it cut into the bedrock to form the canyon. In geological terms, this deep canyon seems to have formed over a relatively short period. Erosion and weathering have continued to shape it ever since. Its origins, too, seem to reflect Iceland’s natural setting, from the volcanic activity associated with its mantle plume to the glaciers sustained by its cold climate.

We were back in our raincoats for another walk, just as at Kvernufoss. The canyon was only a short walk from the minibus. It could have been a gloomy scene in the drizzle, but the rain had brought out the rich green of the moss, brightening the view more than I had expected. We had the place almost to ourselves, too.

I learned about the “Bieber effect” while writing this travelogue. Justin Bieber’s music video for “I’ll Show You” was filmed in Iceland in September 2015 and released that November. It was viewed hundreds of millions of times, and many people wanted to visit the places they had seen on screen.

Fjaðrárgljúfur was one of those places. Others included Seljalandsfoss, Skógafoss, Jökulsárlón, Diamond Beach, Dyrhólaey, and the aircraft wreck on Sólheimasandur—all in southern Iceland. Visitor numbers reportedly surged by 2017, with tours taking fans around the filming locations. Some visitors even imitated Bieber by rolling on the moss or swimming in the cold water.

The sudden increase in visitors took its toll on the landscape, as more and more feet trampled the fragile vegetation. Access to some areas was restricted, and walkways were installed to protect the ground. I heard that the “Bieber effect” had brought forward these conservation measures by as much as ten years.

Perhaps our visits in April and August 2016 came during the calm before the storm.

Justin showed me—indeed, apart from the aircraft wreck, I was shown all those filming locations.