Hengifoss

Iceland
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Hengifoss
Hengifoss Waterfall

We followed a gently rising trail from the parking lot beside the river towards Hengifoss. The river is called Hengifossá: essentially Hengifoss River. A straightforward name. Hengi apparently shares its roots with the English word “hang.” Looking back at my photographs, I could see the sense in “hanging waterfall.” It really does look as though it has been hung from the cliff.

Litlanesfoss soon came into view, with Hengifoss farther behind it. The waterfall drops about 30 meters, but the basalt columns surrounding it were what really caught my eye. The Hengifossá has sliced through the rock, exposing the columns along the walls of a deep gorge. Heaps of fallen rock and earth lie below them.

Hengifoss gradually came into full view, falling from a dark cliff at the back of a great horseshoe-shaped hollow. Our guide told us it was 128 meters high and Iceland’s third-highest waterfall. We could not get as far as the plunge pool at Hengifoss that day, but the closer we came, the more striking the red bands became: about four lines running across the dark cliff, apparently layers of clay. A broad slope of fallen rock and earth spread out below. Boulders lay scattered in the river in front, presumably left behind as the finer material was washed away. The whole scene had a rugged grandeur that stayed with me.

The walk back revealed things I had scarcely noticed on the way up. Another waterfall caught my eye, one that probably did not even have a name. It fell from a high cliff much like Hengifoss, with a smaller cascade just beside the trail farther down. The stream carried so little water that I found it hard to imagine erosion cutting the falls much farther back into the cliff. Given enough geological time, though, who knows?

The view downstream along the Hengifossá was fascinating too. Its V-shaped valley seemed to end near the parking lot, giving way to flat ground stretching towards Lagarfljót. Presumably this was where the sediment carried down by the river began to spread out and settle. I was struck by how abruptly the narrow valley opened onto the plain. Fljótsdalur stretched far away to the south, its valley floor threaded with water flowing towards Lagarfljót and bordered by green farmland. Quite a view.